Where is a good and cheap source for buying vertical blind slats?
I don't know of any place that just sells slats. You'll need to contact the manufacturer to see if they might have extras around.
Just slats? Heck, Home Depot and Lowes both sell them. Some can be cut, others you have to buy a specific length. Of course if you want something fancy they may have to be ordered. And you can't buy just one...they come in packs. Doubt you can match what you have, but easy enough to replace the entire window.
I looked at Home Depot online and they have the whole thing not just slats. Did you check that?
Go back on line to Home Depot and search for vertical blind vanes. They do have them. Bring a sample for size and to match the hole used for hanging.
They're not coming up on Home Depot online. Only small parts. I had to buy a couple of plain roller shades the other day, and looking thru the aisle, I didn't see any vanes, alone. But maybe it depends on the store. I know the larger stores sell more things.
Hmmm..they come up for me using vertical blind slats or vanes. OP is in Victorville. Not sure if they have them there...but in much of SoCal they have a large chain of decorating stores that carry blinds, carpet, and paint. Can't think of the stupid name! I'd think that any store or company that does blinds would have or be able to get slats.
I think I know what it is. I have my store on the Home Depot website, and since my store doesn't sell the vanes alone, it doesn't come up in a search, either. So, obviously some stores carry them and some don't. My Lowes doesn't carry them either, so I guess some do and some don't. You'll need to search different stores to find one that does.
I bought a package of slats at HD. As I remember, they came in 2 colors (Alabaster? and Almond?) with 10 or 12 in each package (I had two sliders and the vanes got twisted by the wind and animals before they were closed too tightly). They worked well on the cheap draw assembly, but the problem was store the left-over vanes since they ended up being too too long and limber in a oversize plastic package. - It was still cheaper than getting new complete blinds. Dick
I looked at Home Depot in Los Angeles area. They also don't have it. At which stores did you see that in CA?
I bought my vanes at a HD in MN just off the shelf. In addition to the normal HD blinds for a slider, they also worked reasonably well (although a little short), so I just replaced an entire section between areas because the custom fabric faced vanes were longer, but that was not a big problem because on cats tried to slip through. - No cat hairs on the vanes. Dick
Just wondering thxbest...did you ask anyone in the decor/carpet department? I've really never been in one that didn't have some basic replacement slats. I used to work at HD and call me strange...but I like to go in them in different areas to see the modifications they have made to the layout.
I think if you stop in any Home Depot, if they don't carry them, they can just punch it in their computer, to find which other stores close to you, do. We have to put in a specific store to search, but they don't have to!
We just went through the same thing - home depot was the solution http://www.homedepot.com/Decor-Blind...Blinds-Shades/ May want to try blinds for less as well.
If you read my reply, not all Home Depot stores carry them. Your link won't work for everyone.
Tags: vertical, blind, slats, Home Depot, they have, carry them, blind slats, Depot online, have specific, have them, Home Depot online, looked Home, looked Home Depot, stores carry
I have been looking around for an answer on the net but have not come up with a definative answer so here I am. I have a sump pit that is approx. 18 diameter and 22 deep. The pit is solid with no holes except for two inlet holes cut into it accepting 4 drain tile from the french drain installed in my basement. The pipes come in above the level to which the pumps are designed to kick on so it seems that water will only enter the pit when the level below the slab reaches the drain tile. I am in a high water table area so whenever there is a significant rain, the sump will fill up and the pump will kick on. The sytem works great and haven't had flooding since it was installed. My question is: should I drill hole holes into the pit below the inlet holes and/ or in the bottom of the pit? I have read about basins being sold with the holes already drilled in them and others where the bottoms were cut out from them. Since my system has been working flawlessly I am reluctent to mess with it. But when Hurricane Irene hit (I am in northern NJ) the pumps were working in overdrive coming on several times per minute. I realized that a larger sump basin would have allowed the pumps longer intervals between pumping. That is what made me think: if I drill holes in the basin, would that allow the water more area to fill up (gravel around pit, water level below the drain tiles) before the pump needed to kick on? Would the pump stay on longer at shorter intervals? Hurricane Irene is an extreme case so I then think since I am in a high water table area, the pump only kicks on when the level is high enough to reach the drain tiles and fill the sump pit. If I were to drill holes in the basin, if the water level is below the drain tile but high enough to cause the pump to kick on since the water is now able to fill the pit before reaching the drain tiles, then potentially I could have the pump kicking on unnecessarily on a regular basis. So, would there be an advantage to drilling these holes?
There is nothing wrong with the sump pump running much if it does the job. I run my furnace fan 24/7 for more than 6 months a year and then intermittently during the remaining times. Keep in mind that whenever the pump is running, it is removing water that can cause moisture or structural problems for a home. Many people drill holes in the lower portion/bottom, place rock and sand to act as a filter under the pump to increase the effectiveness of the sump pit and lower the ground water level under the house. This is effective to reduce the hydrostatic pressure, especially under a slab. Dick
I drill holes and fill around the outside of the basin with clean gravel. I think it helps to remove from underneath the slab a bit better instead of relying on the water rising to the level of the drain pipes.
If you are sure the sump is surrounded by gravel then it would be safe to drill holes if you like. BUT if they used sand to fill before installing the gravel under the slab you might cause this sand to wash into your pit! This would cause 2 problems if you drill those holes..First the pump would be pumping that sand and wear out faster. Second there could potentially be a void created under the slab as the sand washes out. This could lead to the slab cracking and beginning to leak water in at the crack. That could lead to bigger problems and lots of cost. If it is working well now I would leave it as is. Leave sleeping dogs lie, so to speak.
I wouldn't change anything that you have. It works. If you want longer run times, get a smaller pump, but I don't think that makes sense. I think it is obvious that the pumps provide far more capacity than you need during extreme situations. I find that to be a positive situation. Buy the way, do you have more than one pump in the same pit?
Thank you all for your responses. After Irene my Champion CPS3V 1/3hp pump 40gal per minute (10' head) and my Watchdog Bigdog battery backup were running simultaneously (they share the same pipe. I never anticipated needing both to be running at the same time) and I had to throw in a small utility pump with the hose out the window to just barely keep up. That was a wake-up call for me that the battery back-up wouldn't have standed a chance if the power went out. I think the two would have been enough had I had two outlet pipes instead of a shared one. To prepare for the next extreme storm and not have to worry about the pumps keeping up, I installed a Zoeller N98 running a seperate outlet pipe. The Zoller might be considered overkill to many but my Champion is 7yrs old and I am worried that it might conk out one day. So I have 3 pumps installed in the one pit (tight fit). I have the float switches set up so that the Champion runs the day to day pumping when we get a significant rain. If this pump gives out or can't handle the flow of water then the Zoller will kick in and the two should make short work of the worst conditions. Now only if the power goes out will the Watchdog kick in and it should be able to handle the regular water flow that the Champion deals with without any problem. If the storm of all storms is anticipated and the chance of losing power is imminent, my emerency generator will keep all of the pumps going and me sleeping soundly. So, back to my question about the holes. I think I am just going to leave things the way they are. The pit is surrounded by stone instead of sand so the holes would work but since I have the high water table (I even think there is an underground stream that runs through my house) I feel like the pump will always be on even though the water level is below the drain tile. I would love it if I could lower the water level but I am afraid that since there is so much water in my area I may never be able to lower the level and wear out a pump in the process.
Tags: sump, basin, drill, holes, drill holes, water level, drain tile, level below, below drain, drain tiles, high water, high water table, level below drain
We have a Ruud Achiever 10 heat pump that was probably installed 10 years ago or so. We have had problems in the past with icing in the separate interior unit; a repairman diagnosed a slow freon leak, added more, and it worked again. Now the heat pump appears wholly disabled, and a repair service says that the compressor is grounded to short (causing the circuit breaker to flip). The service says we should replace the whole A/C unit. Is replacing the compressor a reasonable alternative? Any other thoughts? Thanks so much for any advice.
10 years is getting up there for a Heat Pump. You'd be best to replace the unit with a higher SEER rating (Better rebate), and you know you are covred. Make sure you get a matching Coil inside as well, and new line set to make sure you are not going to burn out the next compressor.
Thanks very much . . . Err, matching coil?
Matching coil is the A-coil inside your home on your Furnace or maybe you have an Air handler.. it must be changed out on a system change out.. Don't trust a dealer if they says it still will work with the old coil.. It may work. but you are not getting the peek effecney out of it.
Thanks very much. Actually, this service seemed to be suggesting that we swap out the old air handler too (it being of similar vintage), or match up its brand with any new heat pump -- perhaps getting at the same thing. But I'll now be sensitive to that issue.
If you are doing a change out, You will be working with one dealer.. so both system should be the same brand. Look into the varible speed system for best comfort and quiet. I am for Trane/American Standard, and also Rheem/Ruud.
We have had problems in the past with icing in the separate interior unit; a repairman diagnosed a slow freon leak, added more, and it worked again. Is this the same company now that worked on it then?That didnt find or fix the leak. This also could be what took out the unit now. 10 years, yes get a new one now with a new indoor blower coil for sure.That old one should still have the leak in it. For sure make sure new lines or clean the old ones out good. Get 3 bid for this job for sure. If you put in all new units lots of companys will give you a 10 year warranty now. trane has a XL16i that has a Seer of 17.00 and a Hspf of 10.55. Rheem has one close to it also. ED
Hello, I have put one coat of yellow colored stain on my concrete floor in patio. Part of the floor did not receive the stain. I just put the other, darker, stain on it a couple of hours ago, and that part of the floor looks like it did not take this second darker stain. This concrete is original to the house- I think; therefore, it's about 35 years old. The rest of the concrete floor took the stain well. Is there something I can do to the concrete in order for it receive the stain? I don't think it was sealed; otherwise, the whole floor would have been sealed. I appreciate any solutions, if there are any. Thanks!
Are we talking about an outside, uncovered patio? It could have been sealed the weather wore some of it away, in parts. I'm not a fan of painting, staining or sealing concrete. It's no longer maintenance free once that's done. My guess is that you would have to pressure wash it with a red tip.
What type of stain are you using?
Marksr.... I'm using Kemiko brand Stone Tone stain.
Pulpo, this is a covered patio area that has insulated walls and a screen door to the outside. It doesn't have air or heat to it - yet. as far as I can ascertain, this concrete has always been covered. It is about 10' by 20'. I've attached two photos - one is of an area where the stain did not take very well and one where the concrete took the stain well. I heard about sanding the concrete with 100 or 120 grit sandpaper; would that help? According to the instructions, I used Kemiko Neutra Clean with a scrub brush to clean the surface before applying the stain. Thanks - Bills Sis
I never heard of sanding concrete especially with such a fine sand paper. If you still want to stain it, call the company ask them why their product doesn't work. 562-236-1170 Otherwise, since it's enclosed, I would install some indoor/outdoor carpet or something similar forget about the stain.
I haven't worked with acid stains but from what little bit I know about them - they are better suited for new concrete or at least concrete that has been protected from any types of staining. The acid stain reacts with the concrete to give the color. It might be you used the wrong type of stain for the condition of the concrete. There are solid color concrete stains that work fairly well. I don't know if there are any issues with applying them over an acid stain. We have a few members that have experience with acid stains, hopefully one or more of them will have time to reply.
Thanks Marksr and Pulpo, for your thoughts. I hate to put something over this concrete, as I've spent money already on the stain. Plus I got my heart set on this stain! I'll call the company tomorrow, to see what they have to say. Oh...the joys of home ownership! Ha!!
Something is keeping the stain out of that area...probably sealer. Sanding the floor with a floor buffer equipped with an 80 to 100 grit sanding screen may remove enough sealer so the stain can penetrate and react. If not, you could try scrubbing the spot with rags and xylol (xylene), but watch out for the fumes! They are potent. If all else fails, you can use an acetone dye to blend in the color. It looks like acid stain but is not reactive. Downside is that it may fade over time. there is a place in Oklahoma City called The Stamp Store. They could help you out, especially the owner Doug Bannister who has applied (and sold) acid stain since the early 90's. Good luck. By the way, what type of floor covering was on the floor before you tried staining it? That may tell the tale as to why it won't take stain.
ive been dealing with acid stains and sealers for a few years now and i my opinion i would use a floor buffer and red or black pad, wash, scrub (sand) and restain the concrete. its all about the cleanliness of the concrete. if its that old it wount matter. it should still accept the acid stain. for starters, the surface must be well cleaned. if there are any residues on it, they should be degreased, cleaned, neutralized and then the acid stain applied. most acid stains require at least-i let them set for 24 hrs- 4 hrs minimum. then neurtalized and sealed 24 hrs after drying. personally i like the look. yes, it isnt maintenance free, but most concrete if not taken care of will eventually fall apart if you use any ice melt on them in the winter in which case you need to seal it if your smart.
Tags: part, concrete, floor, stain, acid stain, acid stains, with acid, with acid stains, been sealed, call company
I'm still debating whether to use Cedar or Redwood. If I use Redwood, I will almost certainly have to go to my local lumberyard for the wood. If I use Cedar, I can purchase it at either Lowe's or the local lumberyard. I have a 10% off coupon for Lowe's that will save me $400 - $500, but I've never purchased bulk lumber from them before. How is their wood quality? Would anyone advise not to purchase the lumber from Lowe's outside of not showing support for the local guy? Thanks in advance.
I had a choice among Lowe's, HD and a local yard. I found the local guys to bemore informative and believe it or not cheaper for a better quality wood. I generally do buy a lot of material from the box stores, but my experience with a couple of local yards has changed my opinion. If nothing else, the local yards do mostly just lumber. You may find, like I did, that the local yards are also the choice of the local contractors.
Generally, the big boxes are good at selling lumber cheap. The advertising and gimmicks makes it seem cheaper. Dick
Hey,Dick. Is that selling lumber cheap or selling cheap lumber? My experience wit the big boxes is that you have to pick thru a LOT of lumber to get decent stuff. Plus the service is a lot better with the local guys.
There are only a handful of suppliers in the country. Chances are REAL good that your local lumber yard has the same lumber from the same supplier as the big box. Kind of like gasoline, no matter what the brand on the sign is, chances are 99% it came from the same tanker truck. The difference is volume, big boxes sell a LOT of lumber, that means the good stuff gets picked pretty quick, unless you get first grabs at a new bunk. ALL lots of lumber have bad pieces, ALL of them.
It might all come from the same place. But that does not explain why most of the stuff is twisted junk at the box store and the local lumber yards is nice. Unless someone is buying seconds.
I fogot I started this thread over 2 months ago. I went with the big box store since the couple of local lumberyards I checked out could not even get in the same ballpark as the big blue store. We were talking an $800-$1000 difference for the exact same quality of wood. I was given contractor pricing at the chain along with an additional 10% off due to my coupon. In addition, they only charged me $50 for delivery and dropped it off on a holiday. 99% of the boards were top quality with only a handful of boards being slightly warped. I was able to exchange these very easily. I like to support the local guy, but I'm not going to make a bad financial decision just to do so. If it was a $100 or $200 difference, that's one thing, but almost a grand... forget about it.
My experience has been that if I don't get to the lumberyard a day or two after the weekly cedar delivery, I'm better off going to Home Depot and getting it there. The cedar at the lumberyard gets picked through pretty quick leaving a lot of low quality wood. Usually I can still find good stuff at HD. That being said, I go through my local lumberyard when I can - not because of better quality or lower price (seems about the same compared to HD actually), but just because I like supporting the local little guys. But if the big box store could give me lower prices and save me money, like Wubears I'd choose that. I'm not rich enough to not save some bucks when I can.
Originally Posted by Hellrazor It might all come from the same place. But that does not explain why most of the stuff is twisted junk at the box store and the local lumber yards is nice. Unless someone is buying seconds. Sure it does, the big box sells a LOT of lumber, I dare _substantially_ more than any local lumber yard. That means the good stuff gets picked up a lot faster than it does at the lumber yard. The lumber yard also gets more opportunity to cull the bad pieces by virtue of the lower volume.
When I built a deck on my first house in '99 I went to a lumber yard for the wood as opposed to Home Depot. When the wood was delivered I was sorry I didn't get it from HD. The wood was warped, some peices were split and one board was completely unusable. To top it off when I needed a few extra peices I went to HD, the wood was better quality and cheaper the the lumber yard. BTW the lumber yard stored all the treated wood outside, that's why it was warped(I think). Fast forward to 2006, when I built a deck on my current home I went to Lowes. Good quality wood, saved $300 with a 10% coupon I got after the wood was ordered.
I find exactly the opposite to be true. Box stores get sub grade lumber. You may think you are getting the same quality stuff but you are not. Educate yourself and learn what to look for and once you know what to look for you will se a difference. it is like buying a steak. You can get a filet froma supermarket (lowest grade but still good) a butcher (better grade and even more tender) or from a high quality restaurant (the best grade and obviously the best tasting)
Okay, first of all I know this is an ancient thread! In my opinion a lot of lumberyards will deliver junk lumber to homeowners-- they are hoping you won't complain and thus it is an easy way to make some money off the poor quality wood that they inevitably end up with. [My guess is they wouldn't do this to contractors so much because they don't want to piss them off and lose future sales.] I guess this is obvious, but sometimes I prefer going to a local lumberyard because I can drive right up to the wood and often the yard guy will help me load it. Laz
My local lumber yard ALWAYS has superior dimensional lumber when compared to the big box mega-mart homecenters. I have never had a problem with them sending inferior materials when I had it delivered. Cost-wise the lumber yard is a bit more expensive but the materials are superior so I definitely get my money's worth.
Would you all like a perspective from someone who worked at a big box for 5 yrs? Granted it was about 6 years ago...but I doubt the rules have changed much. When we unloaded a truck (I was in Millworks..but I helped out in lumber) we we not allowed to leave lumber outside if there was any rack room inside. If you had to decide, it was white wood in first, then treated or naturally rot resistant. We didn't carry much of the latter...but we did have some cedar. The drivers told me more than once (millwork drivers as well) that they tried to deliver the best stuff to the local yards....since HD (oops...it slipped) went though so much. But it basically depended on the guys at the mill...since they loaded and labeled the hacks. Cost is all about volume...the more you sell the less you pay to the supplier. Blame the contractors and builders...they are the ones that build multiple houses and decks ...not the diy guy who needs 20 or 30 studs.
Ancient threads with pertinent information are always good. So here's my take on the subject: When I built a 500 S.F. addition on our former place in NM 20 years ago, I needed a lot of framing members. I decided to open an account at the local lumber supply place, after observing a lot of junk lumber at the big box stores that I didn't relish picking through. The big advantage of the local guy was his free delivery policy, along with next day pickup and credit for any culls that I chose not to use (best I can recall, a few split 2 x 6s, and one badly warped 2 x 12; all were 20-footers). Another benefit was never having to touch a board until I was ready to use it--local guy's drivers always unloaded everything in a neat pile on the driveway, usually when I wasn't even home. Fast forward to now, different state and located closer to sources of good lumber. The nearest local guy (only 2 miles from the house) is a totally different story. He charges $30 for every delivery, and has a unique take-it-off-the-pile policy, meaning there is no picking allowed. With the unusual exception of RR ties--picking is allowed for an extra $2.50 premium per tie. Making matters worse, the quality of his lumber is generally inferior to all of the box stores, and I refuse to pay top dollar for material that's often suitable only for firewood. Needless to say, I don't shop there. Not many people do, as there are rarely customers in the yard when I drive by (on a daily basis, going to and from the house).
I hate contributing to an old resurrected thread but can't resist the chance to rant. I was in Menards the other day, which for those not familiar is kind of a hillbilly Lowes or Home Depot. LOL Anyway I wanted to buy a couple 1x6's and 1x8's. I took one look at their pile (a fresh pallet, mind you... not one that was already picked over) and quickly realized that Menards must buy a grade of 1x lumber that even a pallet company wouldn't accept. Some of the knots were 4 wide and were ALL OVER the boards. Hardly any of them were straight, almost every one was warped. As I looked at that huge pile of boards I wondered who in the heck would buy them and wondered what they could possibly be good for... other than firewood, I mean.
Somebody must be buying the stuff--last month's Forbes listing of richest Americans shows founder and CEO John Menard, Jr. as the richest person in Wisconsin, worth $6 billion. Must be a lot of folks buying junk lumber, eh?
I buy a lot of lumber, etc. I do not, without a doubt, let anyone bring me lumber that I didn't personally pick out. Makes for a longer morning, but I cull about 40% of the box store lumber, especially Premium 5/4 boards that I wouldn't put on a dog house (apologies to dogs everywhere). I went to a local lumber yard about a mile from orange and, at the customer's request was prepared to make a purchase of 2x4's. Mind you I was building a knee wall in a second floor of a commercial building, so pretty wasn't necessary. The guy uncovered a whole stack of premium obviously #1 2x4 studs that were clear from end to end. He said they were probably shipped in error and how many did I want. I told him how many do you have? I needed 20 but wound up buying 230 ( I believe there's 115 in a stack, Vic????) Two stacks anyway. Couldn't resist.
Not me, Bridgeman! I went back home and bought them from my hometown lumberyard. 3x the price but at least they were nice!!! - #2btr- That's one good thing about our local lumberyard is that they usually deliver for free and don't mind if you select your own or return rejects. But I know down in Omaha at one of the big boy lumberyards that they will add the 15% if you want to pick and choose. That's nuts, IMO. Nice find, Larry! I don't blame you. I do the same thing when I go to buy 1x10's, which I rip into pieces a lot, as I work on windows. Every once in a while the lumberyard will get a stack of unusually nice ones- When I come across them I'll buy a boatload of them!
Last time I went looking for 2x6s at the big box I decided to postpone my project until I could get to the lumber yard. The big box usually just has severely twisted hemlock whereas the lumber yard has real spruce that is straight as an arrow. The small increase in cost is nothing when it comes to doing thee actual work.
Speaking of 2x6, that reminds me of a time I needed some nice 2x6's and 2x8's for an interior trim project where we were creating some exposed bolted trusses and collar ties every 4 ft across this room we opened up to the attic- the finished product would get distressed and finished. Found out that one of the yards in Omaha carries Truss grade lumber which is code for the secret shed where they keep the nice stuff!. Long, straight and minimal tight knots. So from now on if I want really nice stuff, I know what to ask for!
My local lumberyard only carries poor grade 2x4s. I was at Lowe's yesterday and they had more than one grade-- the nicer ones were actually pretty good (new bundle) and probably cheaper than the lumberyard.
Tags: lowe, lumber, lumberyard, lumber yard, local lumber, local lumberyard, quality wood, from same, local lumber yard, local yards, that they, better quality
We recently bought a hot tub and just got our electric bill- wow! This tub has some flimsy siver bubble type insulation around behind the cedar sections around the bottom. I was wondering if I could stuff some regular old pink fiberglass insulation in there. We have it outside, so I don't want to put anything in there that'll get moldy or mess up the tub. It is sitting up on a deck, so it should have enough air flow around and underneath it. What if I put the fiberglass in some plastic garbage bags first? Do you think it'll get too hot under there to melt the plastic or anything like that? We plan on getting that rigid foam insulation, but I wanted to do more to try to cut these bills. Any ideas?
Need more information. What type of tub is it? How many gallons or liters depending on which side of the border your on. What type cover is on it? How is the tub insulated now other then that bubble wrap stuff you are talking about? Firstly if you stuff bat insulation you will loose the R value of it (bat does not like to be compressed) Bat will also grow mold because it holds water. If anything I would (and not knowing how your tub looks and can't believe that it is not already insulated) would empty and flip the tub on its side then spray expanding insulating foam into all the nooks and crannies thats how my tub is. As a note don't smoke or have an open flame while doing this asa the uncured foam is highly flamable. Also don't get carried away and spray like a mad man as when the foam expands you may have to much and this could put extra pressure on the paneling and deform the look of it. Finally Foam is impermiable to moisture and not man made so it will not be a host to mold. You can get the spray foam from Home Depot (comes in a box) and it is different than the window foam as it comes out differently ie. it has a spray trigger and is used for insulating large voids. Good luck, get some more info and decide for yourself.
Actually, there is foam sprayed underneath, but I don't know how thick. It does have a cover. This is a 7 or 8 person tub. I just thought it needed more under there. Maybe just one of those floating covers underneath the outside cover would help. I don't know, we just got it and if you look underneath, there is a lot of open space between the tub and the cedar outside that I thought could have more insulation in there. We live near Pittsburgh, so we get blasted in the winter and I wanted to keep using it as efficiently as possible.
Yes Pittsburg is as cold as Toronto. you can try and use more foam isulation as stated. I also cut my electric bill by turning down my heater to 90 degrees. You can go as low as 86 but no lower. then whe I think I am going to use it I turn it up to 100 again. This I found has cut the bill. Hope this helps.
i agree with the spray foam, just dont cover any valves or anything else you may need to get too. Another thing that made a difference on my tub is, when you have it on its side to insulate it, staple a heavy duty piece of plastic on the bottom, that will help keep out alot of moisture,,,,,then you can spray foam it shut..
Tags: insulate, spray foam, insulation there, then spray, under there, What type
Hi - I think I Have a Cutler Hammer BR series panel (I need to look closer to be sure). I understand that some other brands sell replacement panel covers that have a generator interlock built into them but I can't find one for Cutler Hammer BR panels. Do they make one? I know I can buy a kit to add the interlock but it would be nicer to have a factory installed interlock. Also, there's a picture of my panel below. My panel seems to be installed upside down from other pictures I've seen on the internet. Any problems with that? Thanks!
There is no right side or upside down on a panel where the breaker moves sideways. The interlock will still need to be installed to interlock the breaker in positions 24. The panel label will tell you the brand and style of panel. Eaton Cutler-Hammer should have an interlock in their catalog.
I think this is the part number you are looking for: BRCOV30G1FM Here is the catalog page to verify it is correct for you panel: http://www.platt.com/CutSheets/Eaton...lockCovers.pdf I went with the factory parts on my CH panel too. The aftermarket units are cheaper, but it makes the inspections go easier with the factory parts not to mention that big UL Listed sticker on it.
Wow! Thanks, guys. That's exactly the information I needed. Thanks so much! I don't know why I couldn't find that catalog on my own - and my local supply store never called me back so I guess they aren't interested in selling it. That's ok though because with your help I found it online for the same price as the drill-holes-in-your-panel-and-install-the-aftermarket interlock kit... Except it has a 28 day lead time for ordering. That's ok, I'm not in a hurry. Thanks again, guys!
Can you please tell me where you found that interlock? I need the same exact part for my panel..... But they're expensive!! And would you do it the same way again?
I haven't done this project yet and haven't ordered the part because of the long lead time. Ordering it from other suppliers was expensive...like $600 or something. I think when I do get around to it, I'll get the kit that screws on just because sourcing it seems easier.
Ordering it from other suppliers was expensive...like $600 or something. Before I spent that much for an interlock kit, I would buy a transfer switch or transfer panel.
The screw on kit is $150.
And a transfer switch is a no-fail solution for one feed at a time, please.
I just found a screw on kit for $70. Yes, you get what you pay for, and I don't want ghetto.... But money talks. National Ram Electronics does anyone have any experience with this or anything like it?
The problem with interlock kits is that not all areas will accept them. Most can be easily defeated by simply removing the panel cover. You need to check with BOTH your power company AND the local electrical inspection authority to see if an aftermarket interlock meets their requirements.
Here ya go: BRCOV30G1FM - Eaton Cutler Hammer - COMBO STYLE MECHANICAL INTERLOCK COVER FOR BR3040B200 151.34 and UL listed.
Am I missing something? I saw nothing in the link to indicate the interlock could not be defeated by removing the cover.
I went though the same process until I found this site. I have a Challenger panel which is basically a Cutler-Hammer. I used their design and fabricated my own out of a piece of 3/16 ABS Plastic. ********
The interlock should be a listed device, not one that someone has fabricated themselves or has not submitted for testing.
I'm not sure why you removed the link. I'm not saying everyone should fabricate their own Interlock Kit. This site sell what I believe to be Approved Interlock Kits for $69. Am I wrong? National Ram Electronics
I believe I emailed that site before and the brackets were not listed.
If they were UL listed components the manufacturer would proudly display that information. Many jurisdictions are adamant about ANY part of an electrical installation having a listing from either Underwriter's Laboratories or some other NRTL (Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory) before they will okay its use. Some go even farther in the case of circuit breaker interlocks and require that the interlock may not be able of being defeated by merely removing the panel cover.
I email them below is the Reply: Hi, The interlocks are not listed. They do meet the requirements of Article 702 of the National Electrical Code ANSI/NFPA 70. The only place you will get a UL approved interlock is from the manufacturer of the panel. Thanks, Chris Wiesner National Ram Electronics
Tags: generator, interlock, cutler, hammer, panel, Cutler Hammer, from other, National Electronics, expensive like, expensive like something, factory parts, from other suppliers, from other suppliers expensive, from other suppliers expensive like
I have read most of the posts on crawl space to basement conversions. What I am most curious about is determine if the current foundation will support digging out the rest of the basement. I have a crawl space that has 5ft of space on one end and about 8ft of space on the other. I would like to have it all dug out to be about 9 to 10ft deep to allow me to finish the ceiling out and have a decent floor. Thanks Brian
You'll have to dig down to the footing that supports the wall of the current crawlspace to see how far you'll be able to dig down. If you want to pour a concrete floor down there you'll have to excavate to the footing depth and then pour your floor so that it rests at the edges on the footer.
In my opinion, this is not a DIY project if your asking such basic questions. This takes some experience and a good plan. Once you get into the project and have a problem (you wil encounter an unexpected problem), you will need an immediate answer that is not available from a forum. Some of the unknowns are rain during construction, bad soil, unknown pipes, etc. Exploring by digging near the existing footings is very dangerous if not just foolish. People can easily die with as little as a 3' excavation collapsing. At a depth of 10 feet you can have 10 times as much laterial load as you have a 5 feet. A dangerous rule of thumb is you should be 1 1/2 feet away from the footing for every foot you go down. When going from 5' deep you should be about 8 feet away from the existing. 8' or 10' below grade is not child's play!!! You will also have to pour concrete to prevent any soil from eroding. In addition, you wil have to address the likelihood of more water, which reduces the soil strength dramatically. The only prudent thing to do is call a contractor. He probably only do it if the house was supported. You will get it done right and maybe save your life since collapsing soil kills many construction workers annually. Dick
Well said Dick. I had my crawl space dug out and underpinned early this spring by a true old school professional and was amazed at the care needed to make this project a success. It took this contractor just over one month start to finish and it was definately not a DIY project. The biggest problem with an underpinning project is finding a concrete/foundation contractor genuinely capable of completing it successfully.
I have done foundation work as a DIY project, but never under an existing structure - only new construction. I would defer to Concrete Masonry and concur that you will need a professional to investigate and perform your job.
I have about a 1,300 sq ft. crawlpsace. It is 7ft from the top of footing to floor joist in about 80% of the space. It is something I am comsidering to convert, yet unsure if the outcome is worth the effort and expense. Should I consult a set building codes as a resource to see if removing some of the posts can be done in a safe manner, maybe adding a steel beam or whatever. All this would be only done if it would not place the structural integrity in jeopordy. I would hire some contractors to do work that I am not capable of doing, such as structural aspects, relocation ductwork, etc.. Thanks for anyone's insight and ideas
Tags: crawls, space, conversion, crawl space, about space, away from, feet away, feet away from, from footing, have about, pour concrete
Hello everyone! I recently started a thread trying to find out why I suddenly have mold in the attic after 112 years without. Mold In My Attic....What?!?...Why Now? HELP! It turns out it was me. No good deed goes unpunished. On the second floor we have kneewalls and slanted ceilings for the length of the house. The prior owner had insulation blown in the the bays in the slanted part of the ceiling and over the flat part. (see diagram in link above). The genius that I am decided that 4 of settled insulation wasn't enough, so I rolled R-19 over the blown in insulation and partially into the cavity of the slanted part of the ceilings. I did this last year and now I have mold!!! Specifically it is on the sheathing on the north side of roof. Last night I pulled the fiberglass insulation back from the sheathing and the sheathing was moist, as was the insulation. Below the R19 that I stuffed in there was the original blown in stuff....IT WAS DRY!!! So clearly I inhibited airflow to the point where I allowed condensation to form and mold to grow. So I will be removing the R-19 where it makes contact with the sheathing. But the million dollar question is ..... what is the best way to kill the mold??? The mold hasn't been there long, my guess is that it is new as of this fall/winter. It is the white, somewhat chaulky/fuzzy variety. I've heard of 50/50 bleach/water but I imagine in a not-so-ventilated attic the fumes would get pretty bad. What about Hydrogen Peroxide? No fumes really. I test sprayed some on last night and the mold started fizzing and bubbling like peroxide on a dirty wound, so its doing something. I'll check it tonight to see how well it did cleaning it up. I know you can never 100% kill mold on a pourous surface but I've got to do something. Starting next year I will make corrective steps to improve the soffit ventilation as part of a remodel.....but I don't want a fuzzy attic in the mean time. Your advice?!?!!? And sorry for the long post, I've had alot of coffee.
Mold is a part of our nature, it is here, all it needs is a nurturing atmosphere. Warm Moist air in an attic with poor ventilation is perfect. Improve the ventilation with soffit/ridge vents!!! Add insulation to at least R30, or 12-14. Fill the existing ceiling joist bays to full, then switch the direction of the insulation layer. This covers a lot of the missed areas before. And do it agian, in the opposite direction. To get rid of existing mold, a solution of 10:1 water:bleach, is the formula I keep reading about. It works for me.
I would make sure all the ventilation is set up correctly, possibly get a dehumidifier. I use a bleach and water solution. Take action now before you have to call someone over to professionally do it.
Best way would be to use Foster 40-80.
Thank you everyone! Just to give you guys an idea of what my construction looks like (some of you may have already seen this on the original thread).... There is no way to put soffit vents in right now. The ceiling bays are just plugged with blown in insulation. When I remodel and provide a proper air channel I will install the soffit vents. I currently have a ridge vent. Also, the slanted ceiling part, beiing full of blown iin insulation is probably about R19. The flat part of the ceiling has 6 of blown in plus one layer of R19, so it should be at least R38. I am going to un-do some of the work I did and get the R19 away from the sheathing. Where the R19 hits the sheathing and above to the ridge vent is where there is mold. Its not everywhere, its more spotty and sporatic, but consistant. Its only on the North side as well. I will be removing the R19 near the sheathing over the next few days. I then want to spray something on the mold to try and kill it. I'll put some fans up in the attic to provide some airflow so that the moisture from whatever I spray doesn't hang around too long. So far I've got these opinions: - Foster 40-80: Foster This seems promising. I like using professional products just because I feel like they know better about dissenfecting than I do. I will look into buying this. - Bleach solution: This will kill the surface stuff but maybe not the stuff in the pores. I can't stand the smell of bleach and this is an almost enclosed area....and I don't have the appropriate filters for my respirator. ANd then there is the 3% Hydrogen Peroxide which I mentioned earlier. Does anyone have experience with this for mold remediation? I did a search on the net and the greenies are all about this or vinegar instead of bleach since it is more earth friendly. I keep hearing how it works better too. Any truth to this?
I use peroxide for removing blood from carpet and other soft materials but have never tried it for mold. Despite the smell, bleach is a tried and proven method of killing mold so I stick with it.
I sprayed the peroxide on one small section, we'll see how it goes. It bubbled like crazy on the moldy spots. I'm going to go with bleach though....no sense half-a$$ing it. I'll keep an eye on it and if needed I'll by some of that Foster 40-80 stuff, as I'm sure it will work great. If I could buy it locally I would use it over bleach but the shipping costs make it a bit prohibitive.
I used an acid based product cal-brite it was sold by a local pest controle Caltex International - Cleaning and surface restoration business opportunities (one of the few refrences i found online) amazing stuff, spray it on and the mold just disappears. I then used a borate solution to prevent further growth (i used termite prufe) but as others have said you need to stop the moisture buildup. I did try bleach but found it didnt work well on the plywood and was labor intensive.
You described your problem perfectly, poor ventilation. You do not have to remove insulation, but you do need soffit ventilation and an air space up along the roof sheathing. There are ways to do that without removing insulation. AND, plug any places thwere warm. moist air escapes from the house into the attic, wire holes, fan ducts, gaps in insulation, etc.
lupi2279... is this what you were referring to for the cal-brite:Nu-Calgon Cal-Brite Coil Cleaner, Gallon Thanks!
Thanks for the responses everyone! I'll give an update. About a month ago I went up and sprayed a 50/50 mixture of bleach and water. It killed the mold and cleaned everything up. I've been keeping an eye on things up there and even though I got the insulation off of the sheathing there is still condensation. It is very little when compared to before but it is still there. I have pine planking going across the rafters and plywood on top of the planking. Before, mold was on everything on the north side. Now I just get condensation on the plywood in the spaces between the pine planking. This spring I plan to gut/remodel the bathroom which will give me access to 60% of the north side of the attic. I'll properly kill/treat any remaining mold and install proper venting. The remaining 40% of the attic I will fix from the attic. I will suck out the blown in insulation from the bays and install proper venting and insulation. It will be a real PITA doing it from the attic but it will save me from creating a HUGE mess inside the house. Thanks again!
everything that i ve read about mold remediation suggests that the benefits of clorox are far out weighed by the harmful side effects. there are many products out there that are much safer, microban, concrobium, etc. i ve used concrobium several times available at home depot probably lowes too. add some raft r mates at eaves to allow air flow and soffit vents. i'm currently doing the same thing right now in a cape cod. previous owners had r19 in rafters with 2 roof vents and gable vents, no soffit vents. everywhere the insulation was pieced there was condensation.
I would not say Microban is safer. How many lawsuits they be in
I recently within a few weeks saw an episode of Ask This Old House where they used dry ice to remove mold. The dry ice was professionally sprayed on with a high powered sprayer something like a sand blaster. When they were finished it had cleaned the wood of the mold. Afterwards I think they used a borate solution and sprayed that on to help prevent regrowth. Tom Silva said though that the owners needed ventilation especially in the soffits. They also needed to either remove or cover up their gable vents since they had ridge venting. Tom Silva also said they needed a better vent from their bathroom fan than allowing it to vent into the attic as it should always vent outside. The video for that episode should be on their website. Good luck in your mold fight it never is a pleasant thing to deal with.
BigOldXJ, We recently purchased an older home which has some attic mold and closely resembles your diagram in that there are no soffit vents and the cavity from the soffits to the attic contain fiberglass insulation - hence very little to no attic intake ventilation. As your diagram illustrates the distance from the attic to the soffits is lengthy (about 8 feet in my case). I am also thinking about a graduated approach to get air flowing from the soffits. All of my research tells me that you have to resolve the airflow first in order to remove the moisture that will cause mold to return even if you get rid of what is currently present. One idea is to remove the existing insulation in the enclosed cavities, run a 3 inch pipe (e.g. PVC) from the attic to a new soffit vent and then re-insulate the cavity with loose insulation. Using closed cell spray foam might be better but it is costly. The advantage of this approach is that interior walls do not need to be torn down and replaced. The downside (other than the amount of labor required) is that a lot of pipes will be required to get adequate air flow. My attic is approximately 1000 square feet and my calculation is that I need about 80 square inches of intake ventilation (1000 / 150 X 12). Another option is to encapsulate the attic by insulating the underside of the roof. Sprayed foam insulation appears to be used in this approach, from what I have ascertained. Existing roof vents would need to be sealed. I am hesitant to go this route as you would never know if roof is rotting due to a leakage on the exterior. In addition, if a roof section does require replacement more foam must be sprayed. There may be other reasons not to go this route. I would appreciate any feedback on these ideas as the attic is poorly insulated but I feel I must resolve the ventilation issue before addressing this.
@daduh I dont think so. I actually bought it at a a local pest supply/home inspection store Dana Pest Control. it seems as though caltex distribute through a network of professionals by their website Environmentally safe mold remediation and mold removal business opportunity personally I think their website looks a little sketchy. That said I cant say enough about the calbrite product. sprayed it on w a pump sprayer (use gloves its slightly acidic) and the wood looks new. Scrubbing w bleach did crap. If i remember it was about $30 and it was a 2 part solution. I followed later w Termite Prufe(borate solution) and have had no re-occurance. heres a pic i found online of the bottle i used Google Image Result for http://inspectapedia.com/mold/Cal_Brite_Client_Photo02304-05-07Zs.jpg
I sure wish I could find this Cal-Brite stuff. Not having any luck. Is it discontinued?
Myself included. Does anyone know were to purchase the cal brite product?
Well since this thread doesn't want to die I suppose I'll provide an update. The problem is obviously ventilation. With just a ridge vent there was no way for cold intake air to make it into the attic. The only way to get that air was getting in was from the house. Warm, moist household air + attic = MOLD. I installed two gable vents for intake air. Soffit venting would be ideal but impossible due to the construction of the house. I will install a fan on one gable vent connected to a humidistat to exhaust humid air in the winter. Now an update on the mold. There are some spots where the mold did not die. The bleach spray I did over a year ago was probably not as effective as I would have liked. I didn't have chemical goggles on and that stuff burns your eyes pretty bad! I hurried the job as fast as I could so I'm sure I missed plenty. Also, bleach is pretty ineffective on a porous surface. There are other more professional products out there that are more appropriate. I just bought a gallon of Fiberlock Shockwave which is a professional grade biocide. Foster 40-80 would have been another good choice but was unavailable locally. I ended up spraying the surface 3 times, starting at one end of the roof and going back when I reached the other end. The wood is old and dry so the first spray got soaked up pretty fast. The second spray stayed wetter longer. The third spray stayed wet for some time. So I should have adequate penetration. We'll see, but I'm hoping for the best! I am having insulation blown into the exterior walls so that should prevent warm air from reaching the attic and I'm doing as much air sealing as I can to prevent it further. That in conjunction with the new attic venting and the powered fan on one side I hope to be done with this problem!!!
I've heard bleach doesn't work well for porous surfaces... So I'm planning on going with a 10% hydrogen peroxide + borate solution on my sheathing... Just as if I was dry-ice blasting and worried about running out of oxygen, now I'm concerned about using something that has TOO MUCH oxygen - creating what might be a highly flammable environment in a hot, dry attic. Any advice on that? I'm assuming as the hydrogen peroxide reacts with - anything - it will release the extra O atom and my attic will be flooded with oxygen? Or am I overthinking this? Plus, is it okay to overspray the flame-retardant-coated cellulous-based insulation with this stuff? It's the blown-in kind, not the pink rollout stuff. Plus+, is it okay to overspray the insulation with the fiberlock primer/sealer/paint stuff once I treat everything with peroxide? Or should I cover it as best as I can w/ plastic THEN spray? the ceiling isn't very high and it's *very* difficult to get back in there. Nearly impossible. so if I'm spraying the sheathing, I'm going to be spraying the insulation too, unless I cover it.
I wanted to add one more recipe for a mold killing formula that works quite well. I'm not sure where I came across this formula, but it is surprisingly inexpensive to make. The formula is 2 teaspoons per quart of washing soda (not baking soda). This is available in the laundry aisle at the supermarket. Then 1/8 teaspoon of trisodium phosphate per qt. of water--available in the paint section at Home Depot/Lowes, etc. This can be used in a fogger that can be rented from HD, or for smaller jobs I bought a battery powered sprayer designed for RV cleaning. You could also use one of those pump up insecticide sprayers too. The goal is just to produce a really fine mist. I did one little experiment on a very musty smelling instrument case. I sprayed the case, and allow it to sit overnight, and the next morning the smell was completely gone. I knew I had a winner at that point. This beats the heck out of spending $8-$10 a quart at the local home improvement centers, and does not leave any smell behind like bleach or vinegar. Just be careful about spraying it too heavily or it will leave a white film. Of course, you have to get rid of the source of the problem or your mold will just come back. This means eliminating the food source and conditions for mold to grow. I suspect all this sounds very simple, but having dealt with mold issues myself, sometimes the hardest part is figuring out where and why the mold is growing. I went for almost a year in my own house smelling mold, and thought that it was coming from the basement. I later came to find out there was a small leak in the tub surround. Every time I showered, a small amount water leaked behind the bathtub, and got into the flooring. Since this was all closed up I never saw any water. When I finally got around to renovating the bathroom, I was totally shocked at the amount of mold! OMG, the floor joists were saturated with water, and since there was floor covering and ceiling covering from the basement, I never saw it. I ended up having to cut out the joist, flooring and the water even seeped into the walls and bottom plate, all of which had to be cut out and replaced. When I redid the tub surround, I made sure to use concrete backing board, just in case water ever got behind the new tub surround. Again, pretty simple once I found the problem, but I had no idea it was a problem for years. I suffered from respiratory problems, post nasal drip, congestion, lack of energy and brain fog all winter. Mold is nasty stuff. Not everyone reacts to it, but I sure did. Best, Troy
Hi guys/gals, I just bought my first house in Oct 2013. Im just south of Boston, MA. This thread has been very helpful in giving me some ideas on tackle my mold problem. Heres a description of whats going on and what my attic is like; Central Air system (With attached humidifier and is properly vented to chimney) Ridge Vent No soffit vents from what I can see so far Windows on the front and back sides of the attic Leaky Chimney that gets the wood around the chimney wet Pull-down stairs that fold up into attic when closed Insulation is this old yellow blown-in stuff, and the pink stuff on top of that Minimal floor boards I went up there the other night to check if my chimney leak fixes worked and realized that theres quite a bit of white colored mold forming mostly on the lower half of the roof (more on the north facing side than the south facing side). First thing I thought was that I have my humidifier set too high, so I turned it off until we can fix the problem. Last night I opened both of the windows up there about 3-4 inches to allow some ventilation. I need to add alot more insulation up there and maybe build an insulated box to cover the stairs, theres alot of openings going into the walls that I need to seal up also. Anyways, back to the mold. Im definitely going to spray and get rid of it all, but I dont know the best way to go about preventing it from coming back. This is my first time having to deal with something like this and I want to make sure I do it the right way the first time. Any suggestions?? Thanks!
WE have to build a 6ft tall wood fence down 80ft withe a little hill in the middle. I want to use metal poles and attached the wood fence to them. We have a rather large dog and the neighbors wont leave her alone. So we need something strong and so the dog cant see through it. Will it make a difference in the size pole for the post, 2 3/8 or 1 3/8? Any links to helpfull hints or directions. Thanks Matt
If you would use a 1-3/8 pipe for the use of a post to support a 6' high wood fence the post would bend over like a flower stem on a 95 degree day. In that , No. you should not consider using that smaller diameter rail to use for a post to support that or any other fence. 1-3/8 pipe is intended for being a top and bottom rail for chainlink fencing. 2-3/8 is much more suitable for hanging 6' high sections of stockade or most any other wood fence. You could also use a 2 post to hang your sections on, but doing so you would not be able to purchase that material in a big box store. That size you would typically have to purchase in a fence supply store or warehouse. At the same time it highly likely if you compare quality to price you would find out that your purchase would be better made in a fence supply store over the big box supply stores. Shop around... feel the difference in weight for yourself. I am sure if you plan to install the fencing yourself you would be able to see for yourself the difference in thickness of one pipe sold in one store verses the other. Sometimes you can purchase used piping from fencing supply stores. If that is doable in your area I would suggest doing so. You could save a significant amount of money. Installing a fence with this application you must use cement for the posts. And do not be skimpy on the cement. If you use steel posts, install them correctly from day one, the posts will definitely last longer than the rest of the fence. Good Luck. If you need any other hints on how to, feel free to come back. Greg~
Ok after a lot of thinking and planning, i dont see how i will be able to use the pre-made panels because of the hill and the slope. So im going to use the 4x4 post and build the fence myself. using 6 slates, seems like it would cost a bit more, but the hill makes me nervous. I plan to cement the posts about 7-8 feet apart and build 3 rails and screw the slates onto them. Any tips? suggestions? Matt
If you purchased your fencing in full , pre made sections you could inquire about having the sections fabricated up with the use of only one nail per picket. With that you would be able to easily rack the section if you choose to go with the grade. (This is not an option with a Board on Board style of fencing. Nor would it end up looking good even if you did manage to rack it.) Doing it that way you could always go back and add on screws fairly easy and at your own convenience. Or if you choose you can always step the fence with the grade. Step jobs look really nice if they are on a constant upward or downward grade. By stepping the fence there are pro's and con's. For the most part the pro is the look of being uniform, level and straight. The major con is the bottom of the fence where it does not meet the ground on one end of the section. But sometimes people weight it all out, and prefer the top looking better than the bottom.
Opps , almost forgot.... If you are planning to use Metal posts in place of wood posts you could not use the L bracket that attaches to the steel post. You would be able to use Tension bands (with lag bolts) for whatever size post you buy. If you have a true 2x3 rail on the fence I would suggest buying a 1-1/4-----1-1/2 galvanized lag bolt. Install 3 tension bands per section. That for clarity is 6 bands per post. Keep in mind that if the lag bolts are not galvanized they are likely to rust. Good luck !
Would it be smarter to put the rails on our side and fill it in with the fence boards on the neighbors side? or rails on the neighbors side with the planks attached to them? I plan to sink the 4x4 wood posts 2.5 feet in the ground and have 5.5 ft to put the 6ft fence boards on. When i place the fence boards on the slop i plan to keep the straight like the flat areas. We have a large dog 50lb so we the fence strong so she cant ram through it.
If you are in fact building the fence from scratch, you should first check with your town codes to see whether or not you need to give them a drawing of what you plan to build. They may require that . At the same time , based on just the idea of the dog, the neighbor and which side would look better to you and them, I would say that putting the rails on your side and putting the pickets on the neighbors side sounds like the better way for your application. Doing this you should leave the posts higher, thus creating a custom post in line verses a standard post behind. If the post is higher than the rest of the fence or the nearest picket on each side by about 3 inches you can buy a post cap and put it on top to give the entire fence the finished look. You could also buy custom made posts in most fence supply yard. You could also buy them in lumber yards, but your selection is cut down from about 15 different post tops to about 2 maybe 3. Also , keep in mind if your fence is being constructed of Cedar rails and pickets it is not neccesary to use cedar posts. It sure would look better the whole fence being more uniform but it is certainly not neccesary. This is especially the case if you are planning to stain the fence with a solid color. Again, take your time, check all measurements 2x before cutting. If in doubt always cut the board longer than you may expect. It can always be cut again, but dead wood can not grow. And of course, work safely. Gregs Fence ~
Thanks again for the help. I will be using 8ft posts that im sinking about 2.5 feet into the ground. So the actaul pickets will be taller then the top of the post. The 10ft posts would be an additionally $8 per post, we need 10. So we are going with the 8ft. So the pickets will stick up about 6inches taller then the post, but i found some gothic type post tops that are 7inches that should bring it about even in the top. We live in ct so i think 2 feet in the ground might not be enough, what do you think? We plan to use a gravel base with cement for the posts. Thanks MAtt
but i found some gothic type post tops that are 7inches that should bring it about even in the top. Ok , so now, this is just an assumption from that line above.... You have decided to use wood posts verses the steel? I need to know before I can respond to your questions properly. Greg~
I went with wood 4x4 post and it came out really well, here are a few pictures, length is about 70 feet. Cost $495. Quotes were in the 1350-2100. Took 2 days. Thanks for the help.
Tags: tall, wood, fence, metal, poles, wood fence, would able, about feet, cement posts, could also, fence boards, fence supply, neighbors side, post tops
Pain is the body's way of letting the person know that something is wrong. When a person is experiencing tooth and gum pain, it can not only produce intense discomfort, it can also signal a problem with oral health. When symptoms are treated without diagnosing a root cause, tooth and gum pain may worsen and the underlying condition causing the pain festers, and in some cases, causes permanent damage.
Dental Injuries
Some tooth and gum pain results from dental injuries. When a person is participating in sports or is eating hard foods like popcorn or ice, it's possible to break a tooth or knock one out. Sometimes the tooth can be saved if it's treated promptly. Immediate dental attention is needed. In the meantime, if a dental injury is causing tooth or gum pain, the patient can take over-the-counter oral pain relievers as directed, but should not put tablets directly on the tooth or gum. To prevent dental injuries, wear a mouthguard during sports, take care when eating crunchy foods, and avoid using teeth as a tool.
Tooth Decay
Tooth decay is caused by a thin layer of bacteria called plaque which forms on teeth and wears away enamel. Eventually dental cavities form, which sometimes present no symptoms, and sometimes create tooth or gum pain. Dentists treat tooth decay by filling the tooth. Prevent dental cavities by eating a healthy diet, cleaning teeth and between teeth daily, and going to the dentist for regular cleanings and checkups. Sealants applied by a dentist, especially on back teeth which are hard to reach for cleaning, help prevent cavities by protecting the teeth.
Gum Disease
Gum disease, also called periodontal disease, causes pain and bleeding in the gums, and sometimes persistent bad breath. Early gum disease, or gingivitis, can be treated before leading to a more serious condition, periodontitis. If untreated, periodontitis leads to tooth loss or drifting permanent teeth. To prevent gum disease, stop smoking, treat underlying medical conditions like diabetes effectively, brush and floss teeth daily, and receive regular dental checkups and cleanings.
Abscessed Tooth
A tooth with an abscess has an infection, caused by decay or injury to the tooth, that causes pain in the tooth itself, and sometimes the surrounding teeth, jaw and gums. The infection is treated with a root canal (endodontic therapy), and oral antibiotics. Although in years past, an abscessed tooth would need removal, today's root canal treatments save the majority of abscessed teeth. During a root canal, the dentist or endodontist removes the nerve or pulp of the tooth, and then cleans and seals the empty channel of the tooth. Left untreated, an abscessed tooth needs removal and can damage the jaw bone.
Bruxism
Bruxism, or teeth grinding, causes tooth and gum pain, as well as headaches and jaw pain in some patients. Due to stress or other reasons, some people grind their teeth at night while sleeping, and over time, this harms the teeth and gums in addition to causing discomfort. To treat bruxism, your dentist may prescribe a mouthpiece to be worn at night, muscle relaxants, or sometimes psychological therapy to help the patient deal with underlying stress that may be causing the grinding.
Having knowledge about the parts of a shower faucet and the different types of shower faucets available will make repairing a shower faucet or replacing it much more straight forward. The parts of a shower faucet are something that most consumers take for granted because when the shower faucet is working correctly we just don't give it a second thought. It's not until there is a problem with one or more parts of the shower faucet that we need to learn about the different parts, the different types of faucets and repair techniques. The parts of a shower faucet that may need to be repaired or replaced are specific to the type of faucet that is used.
Washer Type Faucets
Washer type faucets are the most common type of shower faucets on the market today. Over time and with regular use, the rubber washers harden or do not sit properly on the faucet area resulting in a leak. Washers are simple to remove and replace so you needn't replace the whole shower faucet when the washers wear out. You just need to remove the washer and replace it with one that is the same size and preferably the same composition.
Cartridge Type Faucets
The cartridge type shower faucets are simple and feature only one moving part. Removing the cartridge usually is not difficult, and the cartridge can simply be taken out and replaced by a new one. The cartridges are often sold in faucet repair kids that will give detailed instructions on the best way to remove the old cartridge so damage to the shower faucet can be avoided.
Disc Type Faucets
Disc type faucets may have one or two handles, and over time they may begin to leak. The parts of a shower faucet of this variety that often need to be replaced are the o-rings. To replace the o-ring, the disc assembly will need to be removed from the faucet. Beneath the disc area there is a seal, which is the o-ring. Replacing this o-ring with one of the same size and composition will usually stop the leak. For a disc assembly that is worn, replacing the entire assembly may be necessary.
Video cassettes are difficult to find in stores today.
Video cassette players have become increasingly rare in homes since the rise of the DVD format in the 2000s. With VCRs becoming difficult to find and considering that tapes eventually deteriorate, you may have purchased Pinnacle Instant DVD Recorder to back up your tape collection on recordable DVDs. If you no longer use your Pinnacle Instant DVD Recorder, you may remove it from your computer with the built-in uninstall utility.
Instructions
1. Open the Windows Control Panel from the Start menu.
2. Select Uninstall a Program on the Control Panel. If you have configured the Control Panel to display all icons, click Programs and Features.
3. Click Pinnacle Instant DVD Recorder, and then click Uninstall.
4. Click Yes. The Pinnacle Instant DVD Recorder uninstall wizard appears and begins removing the program from the computer. A status bar shows the progress of the software removal operation. When the operation is complete, the uninstall wizard disappears and Windows displays the program list again.
Replace a Rocker Box Gasket on a 1200 Harley Sportster
The 1,200cc Harley-Davidson Sportster XL and XR models come equipped with a two-piece, aluminum rocker-box cover assembly that houses the rocker arms, valve stems and upper pushrod ends. Engine oil is pumped up to the rocker boxes, where it lubricates the top-end components before being evacuated by the oil scavenging system. High mileage and extreme conditions cause the gaskets in the rocker boxes to fail and create a potentially serious oil leak. The rocker box gaskets can be replaced with specialized tools and basic mechanical skills.
Instructions
Removing the Fuel Tank
1. Place the fire extinguisher close at hand. Don safety glasses.
2. Open the left side cover located below the seat, on the left side of the bike, by hand. Remove the fuel pump fuse from the fuse panel with a fuse puller.
3. Start the engine with the ignition key. Allow the engine to run until it stalls and dies. Turn the engine over with the ignition key to purge any remaining fuel from the lines.
4. Turn off the ignition and reinstall the fuel pump fuse in the fuse panel, by hand. Remove the main fuse from the panel with a fuse puller to prevent accidental starting of the engine.
5. Lift up on the quick-release sleeve on the fuel hose from the point where it exits the fuel tank, then gently pull down on the fuel hose to separate it from the fuel tank. Clean up any spilled fuel with a clean shop rag.
6. Remove the fuel filler cap from the fuel tank. Insert the fuel transfer pump's pickup hose into the fuel tank while holding the bike vertical on level ground. Lead the fuel transfer pump discharge hose into a clean container, approved for gasoline storage. Pump the fuel tank empty.
7. Remove the forward and rear fuel tank mounting bolts from the bike with an Allen driver, ratchet and wrench. Lift the fuel tank off the bike and store in a safe area. Cover the fuel tank with clean shop rags or with a clean blanket to protect the paint.
Remove the Rocker Boxes
8. Lift the bike with a bike lift, so that the rear wheel is off the ground. Ensure that the bike is stable and secure on the lift before proceeding.
9. Remove the four outer rocker box-cover screws and sealing washers from each rocker box, using an Allen driver and ratchet. Lift the outer rocker box covers from the engine. Discard the used sealing washers and the rubber rocker box seal.
10. Place the transmission in first gear with the shift lever. Rotate the rear wheel forward, by hand, until both valves on the rear cylinder are closed.
11. Remove the two small screws on the spark plug side of the rocker box with a wrench. Remove the three bolts and washers with a wrench.
12. Remove the four rocker-arm retainer bolts, in a cross pattern, using a wrench. Loosen each bolt 1/4 of a turn, until the pressure from the valve springs is released. Lift the inner rocker box from the engine. Remove the inner rocker-box gaskets with a gasket scraper. Repeat steps 3, 4 and 5 for the front cylinder.
Reassembly
13. Place the new inner rocker-box gasket onto the front cylinder head, with the gasket bead facing up. Place the inner rocker-box cover onto the head and start the four rocker-arm retainer bolts by hand. Torque the rocker-arm retainer bolts to 18 to 22 lb-ft of torque in a cross pattern, using a torque wrench and socket. Tighten each bolt 1/4 of a turn, until the target torque is met.
14. Rotate the rear wheel forward until the rear cylinder pushrods are in the down (or valve closed) position. Repeat step 1 on the rear cylinder.
15. Install and torque the three bolts in each of the inner rocker boxes to 135 to 155 lb-in with a torque wrench and socket. Install and torque the two screws in each inner rocker box to 135 to 155 lb-in with a torque wrench and socket.
16. Place the rocker-box rubber seal into its groove on the top edge of the inner rocker box. Place the outer rocker-box cover in position on top of the inner rocker box.
17.Place a new sealing washer onto each rocker cover screw. Start the four screws in each rocker cover by hand. Check the rubber seal and ensure that it is still in the groove before proceeding. Torque the rocker cover screws to 120 to 168 lb-in with a torque wrench and Allen driver.
18. Position the fuel tank onto the frame and install the fuel tank mounting bolts by hand. Torque the fuel tank mounting bolts to 15 to 20 lb-ft with a torque wrench, Allen driver and wrench.
19. Push up on and hold the quick-release fuel line connector by hand. Push the fuel line up onto the fuel pump nipple, then pull down on the quick-release to snap it into position.
20. Reinstall the main fuse in the fuse panel, by hand. Close the left side cover.
21. Lower the bike off the bike lift and rest it on the jiffy stand. Refill the fuel tank. Start the engine and observe the rocker box areas for leaks before driving the bike.
Tips Warnings
Use caution when dealing with gasoline. Perform the tank draining procedure in an open area, with ample fresh air and away from any sources of ignition such as sparks, open flame or cigarettes.
If any part of the procedure seems beyond your capabilities, consult a qualified Harley-Davidson technician before proceeding.
Oil stains are stubborn and often hard to remove from wood floors and furniture. Working as quickly as you can once the oily substance has been spilled can save yourself some work. With a little bit of elbow grease and common household cleansers, you can make your wood floors or other stained items as good as new.
Instructions
1. Blot the oil stain with a clean paper towel or a blotting paper. Blotting paper is made to absorb moisture and will pick up excess oil from a fresh stain.
2. Fill a bucket with warm water and a sudsy, mild dish detergent. Spread a layer of soap suds onto the oil stain.
3. Work the soap suds into the stain as well as you can. Some finished wood surfaces will not absorb the soap. Then rinse it off with clear water.
4. Allow the area you have treated to air dry. You may have difficulty assessing whether the stain is gone when the wood is wet.
5. Treat the oil stain with a stronger substance if it remains. Mineral spirits, also called Stoddard solvent, is a chemical stripper and thinner available at your local hardware store and can remove tough oil stains. Pour some mineral spirits on a cloth and rub it into the stain.
Tips Warnings
Wear rubber gloves when using mineral spirits to avoid skin irritation. Contrary to what the name may conjure up, mineral spirits is not like mineral water or alcoholic spirits and should not be ingested. Seek immediate medical attention if you accidentally drink mineral spirits or get the volatile liquid in your eyes.
Food coloring allows people to create different colored foods, frosting and drinks. Certain colors, like burgundy, are not sold in pre-made bottles and must be mixed by combining the correct combination of colors. A basic knowledge of the color wheel and which colors can be combined to create others is all that is required. There are several ways to create the color burgundy, depending on how dark or light you want the shade to be.
Instructions
1. Mix 5 parts of rose food coloring with 1 part violet to create a deep shade of burgundy. Achieve wine colored shades of burgundy by mixing red food coloring with blue. The amounts of each will depend on your individual preferences.
2. Combine 3 parts of holiday red and 2 parts rose pink. During the Christmas season, certain food coloring shades, such as holiday red, are more readily available than at other times of the year.
3. Combine red, blue and black to create a burgundy shade. The amounts of each type of color depends on the hue you are trying to achieve.
With a few simple steps, you can troubleshoot and repair a Wayne Dalton garage door opener relatively easily. You may have been faced with a garage door that will not go up or down. This is typically caused by a either faulty circuit board or misaligned photo eyes, both of which are easily diagnosed. By following the steps below you can determine where the problem lies and make the decision to repair or replace the broken elements.
Wayne Dalton garage door openers utilize photo eyes, which function as a safety feature to ensure that no object or person is in the path of the door as it comes down.
Instructions
Fix a Wayne Dalton Garage Door Opener
1. Determine if the photo eyes are misaligned. Check if both lights are steady, rather than blinking or fading in and out, indicating a problem. If so, re-align the photo eyes by adjusting the hardware. Use a universal screwdriver to tighten the mounting screws. If the lights on both photo eyes are solid, they have been realigned. You may need to replace them if this fails to fix the problem. They are sold in pairs, as one functions as a transmitter and the other a receiver.
2. Inspect the wires for any irregularity or breakage by following their path up to the circuit board on the head unit of the motor. Unplug (or unscrew) and then reattach the wires into the motor.
3. If the door is still not in proper working order, you must replace the circuit board. Wayne Dalton garage door openers, regardless of model, are controlled by circuit boards.
The circuit board needs replacing if:
#x2022; The light on the wall is not illuminated
#x2022; The photo eyes are not illuminated
#x2022; The door is in the closed position and cannot be moved
4. Locate the serial/model number, which is most commonly found on the back of the head unit. It is typically made up of letters and numbers and varies in length from 10 to 15 characters. Use this number to order the replacement circuit board through a certified Wayne Dalton dealer.
5. Disconnect the circuit board by removing the mounting screws, making sure to remove any internal wiring held in place with pin clips. It may be necessary to remove the motor cover first. Take note of each wire as you remove it, making it easier to reattach them to the new circuit board.
Attach the new circuit board with the mounting screws making sure to re-connect each of the wires.
All wireless remotes will need to be re-programmed to the new circuit board as per the manufacturer's instructions.
The most common cause for broken motors is a lightning storm or a surge of power that runs from the power outlet through the circuit board. A simple, yet cost-effective way to prevent this is to add a surge protector to the outlet that powers the motor.
Tips Warnings
It is absolutely necessary to disconnect power from the garage door opener before you attempt to remove the broken circuit board or install the new one.
Store small items in baskets to keep them tidy in your walk-in closet.
Cleaning and organizing a bedroom walk-in closet may seem like an insurmountable challenge. Clothes barely clinging to hangers, sweatshirts bulging over the shelf and pants left unfolded in a heap all beg for your attention at once. Concentrating on tackling one issue at a time and following a predetermined plan of attack will help you reduce clutter, organize clothing and accessories and make choosing your outfit each day a pleasant and stress-free experience.
Instructions
1. Schedule time to clean out your bedroom walk-in closet. Dedicate three to four hours of one day to cleaning and organizing your walk-in closet. For those unable to devote an afternoon or evening to the task, set aside a specific time to organize certain things in the closet, such as shoes, purses, shirts, ties and pants.
2. Establish some ground rules. Determine the criteria for deciding if an item remains in the closet, heads to the garbage or gets donated. Consider the number of times you have worn an item in the last year, the current styles or trends and sizing when determining criteria.
3. Work on one section at a time. Concentrate on cleaning out specific items. Start with shoes, purses and accessories and then move on to the items stored on hangers and on shelves.
4. Place clothes, shoes and accessories into appropriate piles. Designate specific areas for clothes you will keep, those you will throw out and those you will donate. Place each item into the corresponding pile as you clean out your closet. Organizing your clothes, shoes and accessories will help you place the items back in the closet in an efficient manner.
5. Gather boxes and bags to help transport clothes to the garbage or to a local charity or second-hand store. Purchase clear containers or decorative baskets to store accessories, including scarves, gloves and belts. Purchase a shoe rack and decorative hooks for purses that see regular use.
6. Organize items as you place them back in the walk-in closet. Arrange clothes by season, color and type. Wash or dry clean clothes that need to be cleaned before placing them back in the closet. Consider storing seasonal clothes, such as winter coats and costumes, in another closet or room to keep clutter to a minimum.
The path to becoming an embroidery machine repair person is largely self-directed. While no specific degree is available in this field, an individual wishing to pursue a career in embroidery machine repair can learn a great deal from training videos and online resources. Include hands-on training at a commercial embroidery plant to validate your credentials. Use this outline to guide you through the steps to become an embroidery machine repair person
Instructions
Become an Embroidery Machine Repair Person
1. Study embroidery machine basics on your own to learn terminology, function and the principles of machine operation. Go through the free basic training program, Embroidery Bootcamp, by TexMac for the manufacturer Happy Embroidery Machines.
2. Secure a position at a commercial embroidery company. Learn every stage of the production process by interacting with the various departments. Ask co-workers to show you what their job entails.
3. Obtain the Universal Embroidery Machine Repair DVD from EmbroideryTrainingVideos.com. Go through the 4-hour DVD several times until you are knowledgeable about the concepts and terminology. Seek opportunities to apply the information in your own job.
4. Choose a specific type machine for which you would like to become an expert. Study those specific online training videos offered at EmbroideryTrainingVideos.com. Sign up for the Embroidery and DTG Newsletter available through this website to keep up to date on industry and machinery news.
5. Update your employer on your progress with training. Ask for additional responsibility wherever possible so that you can hone your repair skills. Seek employment at a larger commercial embroidery firm, if necessary, to expand your opportunities for advancement.
6. Contact the manufacturer of the embroidery machinery you work with most often. Ask for an opportunity to work in its factory for a 3-month to 1-year period. Pursue the goal of being able to say you are factory trained.
7. Join the Embroidery Trade Association. Apply for jobs with the companies listed in its Embroidery Machine Repair Resources to obtain a full-time position as an embroidery machine repair person.
Geologists glean information about the earth's history by studying fossils and rock formations.
The U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics (BLS) notes that individuals with master's degrees in geology can expect excellent job opportunities through the year 2018. Geologists study rock formations and fossils of plants and animals to glean information about evolution and the earth's history. Master's degrees in geology are preferred for many jobs in the field; job opportunities are especially good in the gas industry and in consulting. A number of schools throughout the United States offer master's degree programs in geology.
University of Wisconsin-Madison
The master's degree program in geology at the University of Wisconsin-Madison typically can be completed in two years. Students select a faculty advisor during the first semester and a thesis advisor during the second semester of study. A master's thesis is required for graduation from the master's degree program; students present their research results to a faculty committee and to students in the geology department. Degree candidates select from graduate-level courses covering topics in geochemistry, structural geology, geophysics and marine science. The university notes on its website that oil companies recruit on campus for internship positions for geology students.
University of Wisconsin-Madison
Department of Geoscience
1215 West Dayton Street
Madison, WI 53706
608-262-8960
geology.wisc.edu
West Virginia University
Students enrolled in the master's degree program in geology at West Virginia University can select from a research track or professional track. The research track requires submission of a thesis and is ideal for students who intend to continue on with Ph.D.-level study or pursue a career in research. The professional track involves completion of two projects and prepares students for geological careers. Students can select from several specializations including energy exploration and hydroscience.
A minimum GPA of 3.0 is required for master's degree students; an undergraduate geology degree is not required for admission, but applicants with degrees in other fields need to make up undergraduate math and science courses. Graduate geology courses cover topics including mineral resources, geochemistry and groundwater modeling.
West Virginia University
Department of Geology Geography
330 Brooks Hall
Morgantown, WV 26506
304-293-5603
geo.wvu.edu
California State University East Bay
Geology master's degree students at Cal State University East Bay can take courses on a full-time or part-time basis, making the degree attainable for students who work full-time. Graduates of the program often go on to careers as government geologists, consultants and researchers, while some continue on to doctoral programs.
The 45-credit master's degree program requires candidates to complete a research project or master's thesis; an environmental geology track is available to students who wish to complete a thesis with an environmental theme. Geology students can choose from courses covering topics including groundwater, engineering geology and seismic exploration.